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</a> The left-hand column of the menu reveals the wines. I choose a half-bottle of Sancerre. Well before Exeter, my waitress, Tara, has tugged out the cork with a resonant pop, and she’s inviting me to taste my choice. It is a delight, and since it was the cheapest white on the list, I am feeling smug. Unlike in many a high-priced London restaurant, I am not hurried. There’s time to roll the golden liquid round my mouth as the train runs along Isambard Kingdom Brunel’s most spectacular tracks, hugging the sea at Dawlish and skirting the estuary of the River Exe. Not until Exeter does anyone require me to make more decisions.
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